In 2017, Albiera Antinori was appointed the first female president of the legendary Tuscany wine dynasty. She made a great interview in Wine-Searcher about her hopes and predictions for the future.
Where did it all begin?
I was born in Lausanne, a city on Lake Geneva. My childhood was idyllic – I had the chance to grow up in the family’s 15th-Century Palazzo Antinori in the center of Renaissance Florence, as well as on the family’s wine estates in Chianti Classico and Bolgheri. I’m very lucky.
As you approached adulthood, was there always the expectation from your father that you’d become involved in the family business?
Actually when I was 18, I remember that I was thinking about studying architecture or veterinary medicine. Of course, when you’re that age, you don’t always have a clear vision of your future. I guess that the first harvest at Castello della Sala back in 1986 was the best way to start understanding the world of wine, and to get interested in all the phases of the vineyard and wine, gradually, step by step.
In July 2017, you became the first woman to lead the Marchesi Antinori company. You have two sisters also involved in the business – are you enjoying the responsibility?
More than a responsibility it is an honor. Having such a long history of producing quality wines and representing Italian excellence when traveling is an honor. Obviously, there is the obligation of being compared against the generations before, and this is probably the difficult part, but together with my sisters Allegra and Alessia, who serve as vice-presidents of the family company, we will do our best especially for the people who are working with us.
You have invested in California, Washington state, Chile, Hungary, Malta and Romania. Will the future see a continuation of this strategy?
We decided to invest in Italy and abroad not just in vineyards and wineries but also with people in order to have in each estate a strong sense of identity. Regarding possible interests in new wine regions around the world, we put an eye whenever something new arises. However, that doesn’t mean that we are on the hunt for any new investments.
The heads of family wine businesses often speak openly concerning their fears about the company being sold, and the difficulty in keeping everyone happy, particularly in periods of transition or generational handover. Do you worry about this?
In our case, each generation is like a lifelong learning path; ours is not finished yet and there isn’t a specific moment when the new generation begins. It’s much more of a fluid process. Right now, there are three generations supporting each other; that is the life-blood in a business like ours, but it has to happen in a natural way, no planning nor arrangements. I hope that this will be the same for our children, too. It is a neverending cycle, a learning job that, at a certain point, becomes also a training job for the next generation. Also, in order to strengthen the bond between our family and our company, in 2012, together with my father and my sisters, we established the Trust Piero Antinori that “holds” all the properties together for 90 years. So this will keep everything together for at least three generations.
In the past, you’ve been highly critical of the quality of (some) Chianti being made in Tuscany. Have significant improvements been made, in Classico and other sub-regions?
I think that a lot of work has been done and significant improvements have been made over time in the Chianti Classico region. Nowadays there is no reason why Chianti Classico and Super Tuscans should be considered on different levels; one being a traditional expression, the other being a more international expression, due to the varieties. There are quite a few internationally recognized Super Tuscans produced in the Chianti Classico area that have well demonstrated, across the past 30 years, their capability and great quality.
You have said that Sangiovese simply “cannot travel” – do you still feel the same?
It’s true that it doesn’t travel easily. Tuscany and Sangiovese have a unique bond that goes back centuries. Here, Sangiovese has found a perfect combination of different factors that allow its perfect expression in every single Tuscan wine region where it grows. That being said, I cannot exclude that, years from now, we will be able to find another perfect match like the one between Sangiovese and Tuscany. However, to date, the most interesting expressions of Sangiovese are still to be found in Tuscany.
A debate continues to rage across Spain – particularly in Rioja – about segmentation and vineyard zoning in the Burgundian mould. If this something you would like for Chianti Classico?
Too much confusion between the appellations is usually never a help to improve perception and quality of both the wines and the single wine regions, so a terroir classification might be a good method to pursue in the future. The Chianti Classico appellation is studying a possibility of zoning the Gran Selezione but, as in other areas, there are long discussions.
Where do you stand on climate change – exaggerated threat or looming disaster?
Climate is something that people who have to deal with agriculture have always depended on. Farmers know that there are good and bad years. That is a big part of the fun. But climate is really changing. Not so much on average, but in extremes. If it rains, it pulls down half a hill. If it is hot, it is boiling hot and dry for weeks. That’s still manageable, and as temperatures are rising somewhat overall, we can also grow vines in locations that were not perfect in the past, such as northeast slopes and higher altitudes. Saying this, we all have to contribute to avoid useless wastes and to operate in a sustainable way at all levels.
In 2019, what do you feel is your key business asset, and potential weakness?
The quality of the product has always been the most important asset for all our wines together with a long and consistent history and commitment. But there are commercial limitations, climate change and declining wine consumption to worry about.
Putting wine aside, what are your other passions?
Traveling in Bolgheri, eating Asian food and horse riding. I also I have a strong passion for architecture. Generally speaking, I’m always very connected with nature, but I’m very much into art as well.
Finally – what do you want from the future?
A healthy and solid winery and new generations happily working for the family business.
An article from Wine-Searcher by James Lawrence
https://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2019/12/antinori-and-the-future-of-wine